A new router from scratch: a setup you will not have to “fix” later
A new router “works out of the box” in the sense that its lights are on. But with default passwords, open management and random channels it works worse than it could. An hour of careful setup saves you several evenings.
Preparation: five minutes that save you
- Ask your provider for the connection type: automatic (DHCP), PPPoE (login and password) or a static address. It decides what you enter in the router.
- Check whether the provider binds service to the MAC address of your old equipment: some do.
- Photograph the label of the new router: it has the admin address, the initial login and password and the Wi-Fi password.
- If you are replacing an old router, take screenshots of its settings (Wi-Fi, WAN, DHCP pages). You will recreate them in minutes.
- Connect your computer by cable if you can: Wi-Fi changes during setup and a cable will not drop out in the middle.
Step 1. First connection
Plug the provider's cable into the WAN or Internet port (usually a different colour). Connect the computer to one of the LAN ports. Power on and wait a minute or two for the router to boot. Then open a browser and type the address from the label: most often 192.168.0.1, 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.88.1 (MikroTik). If the page does not open, make sure the computer got an address automatically.
Step 2. Admin password first
The first thing to do is change the admin password. The default “admin / admin” is the first thing anyone tries. Make a long unique password and save it in a password manager. Do not reuse the Wi-Fi password.
Step 3. Internet (WAN)
Choose the connection type your provider gave you and enter the details. Save and check: the router's home page should show a WAN IP address and a “connected” status. Open any website. If it does not work, the most common causes are the wrong connection type, a typo in the PPPoE password, or a required MAC binding (changed in the WAN settings).
Step 4. Wi-Fi
- Network name (SSID): no surname or address, since neighbours see it.
- Security: WPA3 or WPA2/WPA3, password of 12 or more characters. Do not enable open networks or WEP.
- Country or region: Ukraine. It decides the allowed channels and power.
- Channels and width can stay on “auto” to begin with, and be set manually later if needed (see the article on 2.4 and 5 GHz).
- The names for 2.4 and 5 GHz can be merged (simpler) or separate (handy if you want to see what a device is connected to).
Step 5. Local network and DHCP
DHCP hands out addresses to devices. The default range is usually fine. It is useful to set “address reservation” for the printer, NAS, cameras and smart home server: the router always gives them the same address and settings that point at it do not break.
Step 6. DNS
By default the router uses your provider's DNS, and that is enough. If you wish, you can set public DNS such as 1.1.1.1 or 8.8.8.8, or DNS that filters ads and malicious sites. Change it only if you understand why: if something goes wrong, going back to “automatic” is easy.
Step 7. Security: what to turn off and remove
- WPS: turn off.
- Remote management (access to the admin page from the internet): turn off. If you need access from outside, use a VPN instead.
- UPnP: turn off unless your apps and games ask for it. It opens ports for devices by itself.
- Port forwards for random devices to the internet: do not open them. Cameras and NAS exposed to the internet are quickly found by scanners.
- Guest network: turn on, for visitors and for smart devices.
Step 8. Firmware and backup
Update the firmware to the latest stable version. More often than not this closes real vulnerabilities. Then find “Backup” in the menu and save the settings file. Keep it in your documents folder. If the router ever resets, you restore everything in two minutes.
Step 9. Check
- Open websites on a computer and a phone. Measure speed by cable: that measures your provider, not Wi-Fi.
- Connect every device you need: printer, TV, smart plugs. If one does not see the network, it is usually old and supports only 2.4 GHz.
- Reboot the router and make sure everything comes back by itself. This is your check against a power cut.
If something goes wrong
- The router hangs or you forgot the password: there is a Reset button on the case. Hold it for 10 seconds and set up from scratch (restore from the backup if you have one).
- The internet vanished after a change: undo the last setting; the screenshots from “Preparation” will help.
- Wi-Fi is worse than with the old router: see the articles on channels and placement.
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